Narcos is a gripping account of the horror and violence that the Colombian cocaine cartels have inflicted upon the world since the 1970s. It meticulously details the drama of the time, introducing us to such infamous figures as Pablo Escobar (Wagner Moura) as well as the unsung heroes working alongside the DEA to bring these kingpins down. Narcos is grim, but Narcos also features some of the best fashion on TV.

Oh, yeah, I’m one of those weirdos who watches Narcos for the offbeat sartorial choices.  Do I know what’s going on? Not really. I know Pedro Pascal is the good guy and the cartel dudes are bad. But I also know that Narcos saddles these criminals with amazing style. I mean it. Last year, Narcos upped their fashion ante by giving Pablo Escobar the best sweater game on TV. He wrecked terror throughout the lands wearing the same kind of sensible nautical-themed knitwear you’d expect at a country club in Maine. It was bizarre. It was cozy. It was “dad style.” It was sensational. 

So when it was announced that Pablo Escobar’s story would end and Narcos Season 3 would focus on the Cali Cartel, I was a tad bit distraught. It meant that chunky, unflattering, exceptionally wonderful knitwear no longer had a safe space in the world of streaming. Then Narcos did something that truly surprised me. They upped their fashion game in Season Three by introducing an avalanche of colorful, aggressively-patterned, sometimes silk, “man blouses.”

A “man blouse” is a term I made up to describe a type of men’s shirt that is far too fetching and attention-grabbing to just be called “a shirt.” A “man blouse” is easy, if not also flow-y. A “man blouse” is fun. A “man blouse” is bold and unafraid. A “man blouse” must be worn with confidence or it should not be worn at all.

In Narcos Season Three, the Cali Cartel loves its “man blouses.” Its leaders don excitingly colorful “man blouses” and pair them with textured blazers that provide even more contrast for the eye. Side characters and lackeys wear short-sleeved cotton versions of these tops. The one exception to the team uniform: José “Chepe” Santacruz-Londoño, who prefers to express himself with rugged jean jackets and Big Bird-colored puffy parkas. Nevertheless, the chiefs of the Cali Cartel are all about the “man blouse” swagger. It’s more than a fashion choice, it’s a state of being. And it includes a penchant for comfortable leisure footwear: loafers and boat shoes and sneakers and soccer cleats, oh my. (Full disclosure: I love a good boat shoe.)

However, there is one member of the Cali Cartel whose devotion to “man blouses” goes above and beyond. I’m talking of course about Pacho Herrera (Alberto Ammann). Pacho’s “man blouse” game is without reproach. Throughout Narcos Season Three, he keeps surprising us with patterns changes. He goes from lush jewel tones to sharp mini polka dots and back to tropical swirls with wild abandon. In addition to a full spectrum of colors, Pacho knows how to play with textiles. Many of his blouses have a silken, satin-like sheen that makes them glow like the moon. Pacho is the king of the “man blouse.”

But, okay, I still kind of miss those sweet nautical nerd sweaters. They were so dopey they were dope.The Cali Cartel took the drug trade to new levels. They ran their drug trade like a corporation — a corporation that took no prisoners. They basically were a super-charged version of Pablo Escobar’s blood-soaked operation. So it tracks that Narcos would want their style to be far more super-charged than Pablo’s. And it is! All hail the “man blouse!”